In this post, I’ll show you how to make a DIY peg rail. I’ll give you two ways to do this – one way is more traditional and you’ll need a drill with a drill bit. (You can also make your own wood pegs from an inexpensive 3/4 wood dowel! This is easier sometimes as traditional pegs can be hard to find.)
But the other way is not – so if you think you need to set up a master carpenter shop to complete this project – you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
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I really love the look and functionality of a shaker peg rail.
I think they fit with a variety of design styles, whether you are mid-century modern, farmhouse, or traditional. You can always find a place to put these shaker peg rails in your home.
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You can make them with scrap wood you already have or inexpensive pine boards. Creating your own also allows you to choose the exact stain and size that you want.
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I used a Forstner. You can use either as they do the same thing.
These drill bits will make a hole in the wood for you to insert your pegs.
The second way is with screw-in pegs. I found a set on Amazon and decided to give them a try. They worked out perfectly (although they probably won’t hold as much weight as making a peg rail the first way.)
How to Make a Peg Rail
Things You’ll Need
- Wood Board – I used a cheap Pine furring strip (1x3x8). I prefer a thinner look to a shaker peg rail. Make sure the wood is deep enough to hold your peg tenon without poking out the back. (the tenon is the part of the peg that goes into the wood)
- Wood Pegs or Screw-in Pegs or 3/4 inch Dowel for making your own pegs
- Wood Glue
- Forstner Drill Bit or Spade Drill Bit
- Drill – makes screwing in the pegs a bit easier.
- Sandpaper or Orbital Sander
- Stain or Spray Paint ( I used Varathane Early American)
- Pencil to mark off a centerline and measure where each peg will go
- Tape Measure – see (How to Read a Tape Measure)
- Combination Square
- Rubber Mallet
Step 1 – Measure your Board and Mark Off Peg Placement
Make sure your pine board is cut to the length you want first. You can do this at home with a miter saw or have the hardware store cut it for you.
First, measure the length of your board and determine how you want your pegs spaced.
Then, use a combination square to find the exact center of your board for the peg placement and draw a line across your board. You can do this by measuring the total width of the board, then splitting the number in half to find the center.
From there, measure the spacing distance for each peg and place a mark.
I started the board with two inches on either side, then each peg spaced 8 inches apart. My shaker peg rail is 44 inches long.
Step 2 – Drill your Peg Holes
For the traditional wood pegs:
Try to drill as straight down as possible so your pegs go in nice and straight.
For the screw-in pegs:
Take your drill and lightly start a hole on each one of your peg marks. This will make it easier to screw in your pegs. It’s not necessary, but the pegs can be a little difficult to screw in by hand.
Step 3 – Install Pegs
For the traditional wood pegs:
Put a dab of wood glue along the sides of each hole – you may want to do this part from the backside. Wipe away any excess glue. If your wood glue dries on the top, these areas won’t accept your stain later on.
TO MAKE YOUR OWN PEGS: Buy a 3/4 inch wood dowel (sold at hardware stores) and cut 3 inch pegs from it using a table saw. Then, you just have to attach them with wood glue the same way you would traditional wood pegs. You can use a sander to round the tops a bit.
For the screw-in pegs:
You’ll do just that – screw in your pegs. These get more difficult to screw in as you go along. You can use pliers and gently try to screw them in that way to give you a bit more leverage. Just giving you a little heads up that it takes some serious hand strength toward the end – but still totally doable. You can do itMake sure each peg is screwed in nice and tight and that they are flush with the board.
Step 4 – Sand, then Stain, or Paint
Sand your shaker peg rail so it’s nice and smooth.
After sanding, remove any sawdust with a tack cloth.
Now it’s time to spray paint or stain! I chose Early American Stain for the new peg rail and Rustoleum Matte Black for the older peg rail.
I don’t know about you but I personally love the look of pine when it’s stained.
It brings out all those beautiful grains in the wood. I get that Pine is not the strongest wood, but to me, it looks just as pretty. Follow with a quick coat of polyurethane for protection.
Rustoleum makes the best spray paint ever in my opinion. Spray light coats outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, and wear a mask and rubber gloves.
I also recommend spray painting your peg rail in an old cardboard box to avoid discolored grass. (I once had pink grass for weeks.) Allow the paint or stain to dry for 24 hrs.
Step 5 – Hang and Enjoy
You’re finished! Now you just need to hang it.
I recommend screwing this into a stud in your wall on each end of the peg rail.
You can place the screws in between the pegs, then if you want, use a wood button or screw hole sticker to hide it. Make sure it’s nice and sturdy on your wall before hanging anything heavy from it.
Peg Rails – Final Thoughts
I know that wood-stained and black and white versions are pretty standard for peg rails, but the sky is the limit on what color you can make these.
I’m thinking a gray, navy, or a forest green painted peg rail would be really cool.
(Related: Check out how to get spray paint off of skin! An easy trick!)
You can also choose the length and width of your board. I’ve seen these look good in wide and skinny versions. There are enough pegs to make a few if you space them out with a plan in mind.
Although these shaker-style peg rails are good for closets – I love the look of them right out in the open. Try them in a kid’s room hung down low to get your kiddos in the habit of hanging their clothes!
Since my peg rail is going in our laundry room, I’m planning on hanging a laundry bag, maybe some laundry accessories and of course something decorative – like a wreath or dried flowers.